Desk Top

[John Booth]

I am planning to put together a desk top that will be 60" long by 26" wide, thickness 1.25", I am using an average of 5" wide planks of Tiger Oak and surrounding it with 4" wide English Oak with breadboard ends, I had condidered mitre joints at the corners but did not think they would be strong enough. I am thinking along the lines of using slots around all of the tiger oak and using loose strips of wood, no glue, the only place I was going to glue is at the four corners were I was going to use T&G joints, My client keeps his house VERY warm and I have had trouble with movement at the joints in the past, he does not want any of the same problems with this desk, will the method of fixing I have outlined allow enough movement between each piece so any opening will be un- noticable, I am using a hard wax finish with plenty of wax, both sides will be finished the same. The desk top will be well supported.
Any alternatives would be welcome or am I on the right lines?
Just had a thought! should I apply a small dab of glue in the centres of the long side. Also, is there a better finish for a desk than wax, the client does not want a shiny finish.

[JoeSpackle]

The problem I see is that no matter the joinery system used for the breadboard ends the center is going to move even with thick material.

The best answer I can give you would be to resaw the tiger oak to 1/8," edge glue this material to make a center panel. Sand the panel to smooth but no less than 1/16" then laminate the center to a stable core of 3/4" MDF or Baltic birch.

You will need to construct a balance panel for the opposite (under) side as well. Then T & G the perimeter of both the panel and the 1.5" English oak and then you can safely glue the thick English oak around the entire panel.

As for finish the Oak has an open grain matrix that may need filling prior to finish but a quality flat lacquer coating syustem would give you a less glossy finish.

HTH

Joe

[John Fry]

Hi John, welcome to the Zone!

The top will expand and contract across its grain (the width) and the cross grained, end pieces of the frame work would have to move lengthwise to stay together. That just isn't going to happen. Your miters will be forced open during expansion, and the end pieces would be forced away from your center field during contraction.

If you are adamant about a frame with mitered corners, I think your best method is a veneered center field. The mitered corners just don't work with a solid wood top. Or go with standard breadboard ends and accept the fact that during times of movement, the edges of your top, and the ends of your breadboard, won't always be flush.