Here are some pic's of a friend of mines fiddle up north.
Here is the response that I sent also. If anyone has some ideas I am willing to listen.
Quote:
Hey Jeff
The photo of the neck is most troubling to me. I can see that you will have to add material to the area that will be the dove tail. It seems that the dove tail section was removed for flush mounting.
This was a style of construction used in the Check Republic, in the early 1920’s.
Photo 1
In order for this neck to be refitted, cut a dovetail into the neck. Approximately 1.5 – 2 mm deep, this will be the pin. Cut a tail on a section of hard Maple with the same grain orientation as the neck. This block should be thinner then the sides of the neck heal by 2mm on each side. You will be adding about 6mm to the length of the neck. You should have 4mm to use as a dovetail in the neck block. (The “heal” is the end that is near the clipboard clip.)
Your dimensions look good.
Before you start adding material, mark the top of the top plate location on the neck heal. There should be a 6mm Gap between the top and the bottom of the fingerboard.
The peg holes look to be a little enlarged, so be careful when fitting new pegs.
Pdf 1
The instrument looks like is worth saving. So far you have done a good job, but there is a lot of work ahead.
Page 2
The photo shows that the sides are thicker than 1.9mm. I see that extra lining material was installed at a date; in order to, strengthen the side, compensating for the structure the neck block would have provided. I hope you have cut some of the lining away before installing the neck block. The grain in the neck block should be inline with the neck and end pin, with the end grain showing.
Page 3
I see the mortise tenon that was cut from the neck for removal. Did you remove this remaining part? Or trim it flush before installing the neck block.
Pdf 02
It looks like you have the cracks closed pretty well. I noticed that you installed the cleats with the grain in line with the top wood grain pattern. This will cause some problems later on with expansion. I fear the cleats will break, and the cracks will reopen. The best way to install the cleats is with the grain of the cleat at a 90 degree angle to the top plate grain. (Page 9)
To help prevent the cracks from appearing again, you can leave a gap inbetween the saddle nut and the top plate. As the top plate shrank, the ebony saddle nut did not shrink at the same rate causing the cracks. A gap of .5mm will help prevent this.
Pdf 03
I see that some of my questions are answered with these photos. The neck block as fitted will not withstand the tension of steel strings for long periods of time. If you wish to use steel strings, you will have to make another neck block. Remove the linings from the area that the neck block will fit. And trim the old tenon flush with the sides and back plate. The grain should be vertical from back to top. You can use spruce or willow for the block. Currently the block you have installed will not hold up to shear/side stress. The block will separate at the shortest grain ring curve.
Pdf 04
The neck looks like it is in good overall shape. I can see that the groove (left to right) on the neck heal, was made to accommodate the overhang of the top plate. The remains of the tenon are visible on the bottom of the neck. I would leave this in place as long as the height is not affected.
The neck area that you are sanding down appears to be headed in the right direction. I would remove material until it felt comfortable in playing position. When you are ready to finish this area use a neck stain or sealer. This area will flex and may cause some cracks in the finish, if you use a hard varnish.
I don’t want to deter your efforts as this is the only way we learn. I will have to think about this neck remounting for a bit, I will also hit the books looking for an alternate method of resetting.
I will have to do a screen capture to be able to up load the rest of the pic's
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you sign your work
Last edited by cfiddlemls; 02-19-2010 at 05:59 AM.
Reason: Added Pic's
Jeff has made some progress on his Fiddle repair. It turns out that the instrament had a double rib on the interior.
I see that the drawing really helped out. The idea of the dove tail was to act like a wedge; thus making a strong mechanical joint. The glue just prevents the neck joint from slipping. You have done a nice job so far.
You will have to clean the excess glue from the joint, before you start fitting the neck to the neck block. The neck will be under tension when the strings are installed.
If you have a tight fit before gluing, the joint will hold. Remember that the top and back are also surfaces' that will act as a glue joint. The tighter the wood fits together the better.
When you make the dove tail in the neck, make sure that you start out smaller then the marked size. (About 1mm inside the marked lines) Look at the bottom and the top of the pin you added to the neck.
I see that you have the marked lines correct. Use a sharp chisel to trim the small wedge on each side of the pin; so that, you make the dove tail pin first. Line up the neck with a piece of string attached to the end pin and the scroll of the neck. Hold the neck in position on the body.
The string will act as a centerline to get the correct horizontal alignment. Use the neck gauge to set the angle of the neck.
Mark the location on the ribs at the neck block location. When you make you cuts into the neck block, angle you cuts to accept the tail shape on the neck.
Take your time and work with small cuts, paring away the material.
Use stop cuts; in order to control the amount of wood you remove. Test fit the neck often, and you will end up with a really strong joint.
__________________
Remember that with your skill
you sign your work
Jeff's Fiddle repair
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