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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 02:32 AM
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Default Hand Plane - Just getting started

Good evening Gents. I just picked up a stanley #4 on e-bay. Looks in very good condition with rosewood handles, no pitting or rust. A gentelman on Woodnet is working on tuning up a #5 and I'll likely pick that up as well. He'll contact me when it's tuned.

The #5 would then be ready to go. The #4 has not arrived yet, but it will need a tune up and sharpening. Since one can make things more complicated than necessary and new things often seem daunting, I have a few questions before I get started. Please share your thoughts and experiences to help an associate here.

I know it won't be perfect from the get go and there is a learning curve.

1) What bumps in my learning should I expect.
2) What are the most important quick hit steps to help ease the pain?
3) Can you de-mistify sharpening/tuning/fittling?
3) What does fittling mean? vs sharpening?
4) What is Jappaning?

Ok, maybe a couple real easy ones there but the answers will be a big help. I may have a few more that come to mind. Kindest Regards, Justin
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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 02:38 AM in reply to DCG's post "Hand Plane - Just getting started"
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I'd be interested in knowing too.
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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 04:21 AM in reply to DCG's post "Hand Plane - Just getting started"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCG View Post
The #4 has not arrived yet, but it will need a tune up and sharpening. Since one can make things more complicated than necessary and new things often seem daunting, I have a few questions before I get started. Please share your thoughts and experiences to help an associate here.

I know it won't be perfect from the get go and there is a learning curve.

1) What bumps in my learning should I expect.
2) What are the most important quick hit steps to help ease the pain?
3) Can you de-mistify sharpening/tuning/fittling?
3) What does fittling mean? vs sharpening?
4) What is Jappaning?

Ok, maybe a couple real easy ones there but the answers will be a big help. I may have a few more that come to mind. Kindest Regards, Justin
I'll take a stab at some of them, but you need to wait until someone who really knows their stuff comes along (like Mike or Tim or... anyone!).

1) Get a book, like Garret Hack's Handplane book. I thought he walked through the steps in a readable, comprehensible fashion.

2) I believe it's "fettle". Fettle is simply to repair or prepare a tool for use. To fettle a plane, you'll flatten the sole, clean and adjust the frog, tune the chipbreaker, etc. And you'll sharpen and hone the blade.

4) Jappaning is the "black paint" on the plane. Sometimes it ain't black and I don't think it's paint, but you get the drift.

The basic steps are:
- check the sole, flatten if necessary. Hopefully not too much required since you have a lot of metal to remove. One way to flatten is to adhere sandpaper sheets to a known flat surface (like a TS top) and abrade away. There's more to it than that, see the book, but you get the drift.
- if its a Bailey style plane then you remove the frog, debur the mouth, smooth the mating surfaces and reinstall. Again - more to it, but that's the basics. If its a Bedrock, then the approach is the same but the details differ a little.
- the chipbreaker should fit flat and tightly on the iron. Again see the book.

So far you've probably used sandpaper and a small mill file.

When it comes to sharpening the blade, you've got some choices on the technique. There are automated (Worksharp, Tormek, Jet) approaches and manual (wetstone, oil stone, ceramic or sandpaper).

From there the basics are: flatten the back of the iron (increasing grit from 320 to 1000, 4000, 8000 or so). Then you sharpen the bevel (same grit sequence), then you may or may not add a micro bevel. Then you hone the iron.

Sharpening is a book onto itself.
Some of this is in the Wiki.

Before I type a Freeser, is this what you're after???
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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 06:30 PM in reply to pconroy's post starting "I'll take a stab at some of them, but..."
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pcon pretty well nailed it.

Myself, as far as the base of the plane being perfect, I don't get all picky about being totally flat. A few low spots around the mouth doesn't seem to affect anything that I've seen.

If its totally whacked, I have an edge sander that I put a 150 grit belt on and give er a good grinding.
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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 09:11 PM in reply to pconroy's post starting "I'll take a stab at some of them, but..."
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This is the kind of stuff that helps guys. As I begin using the plane, lets say straight out of the box on the e-bay Stanley #4. What things should I pay attention to that will aid it taking the next step to fettle/sharpen? If it just won't budge, the blade likely needs a good sharpening or maybe the blade is sticking out too far from the sole, or maybe the blade is not level with the sole, etc. Not sure if that's the right stuff to look at if for example the plane won't budge.

How far through the sole should the blade be set on a #4? Is it different on the different sizes? Is it 1/16th of an inch or less or just a titch beyond the sole?

How thick should the shavings be and how much should I expect to be spilling out as I work the wood?

Thanks for giving some thoughts and book recommendations. Before I get the book, I'll want to play a little bit, so basics are great.

Thanks again. Justin
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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 09:30 PM in reply to DCG's post starting "This is the kind of stuff that helps..."
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Justin when you receive your #4, take the blade out and sharpen it as was described above. If you don't have sharpening equipment then do a search for scary sharp as that is a good method to start with and is also good for touching up blades as you work. Don't forget to lap the back of the blade, that's every bit as important as the front.

Adjust the frog so that it is 1/16" back from the mouth. Reinstall the blade (bevel goes down) and adjust it to where it does not protrude out the bottom at all. Grap a piece of straight grain scrap and try it out. (going with the grain). Keep turning your adjustment wheel until you start getting those real thin shavings. Back up your blade to protect it when you are done.

Enjoy.


Jim
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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 09:33 PM in reply to DCG's post starting "This is the kind of stuff that helps..."
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCG View Post
This is the kind of stuff that helps guys. As I begin using the plane, lets say straight out of the box on the e-bay Stanley #4. What things should I pay attention to that will aid it taking the next step to fettle/sharpen? If it just won't budge, the blade likely needs a good sharpening or maybe the blade is sticking out too far from the sole, or maybe the blade is not level with the sole, etc. Not sure if that's the right stuff to look at if for example the plane won't budge.

First. Disassemble and note how things are placed. Then clean it up.
Note where the chipbreaker, that doodad that is attached to your blade, sits on the blade. On the end, it should be back off the blade about a 1/32 to a 1/16. Blade bevel goes down toward the mouth opening.
Note where the frog sits. THe frog is what the blade and chipbreaker sit on.
Frog should be sitting flush with the mouth opening.

How far through the sole should the blade be set on a #4? Is it different on the different sizes? Is it 1/16th of an inch or less or just a titch beyond the sole?

Just depends. How fine of a shaving do you want/need?
I start out by sitting in so my thumb just barely feels the blade.

How thick should the shavings be and how much should I expect to be spilling out as I work the wood?
1/32 or less is a good shaving.

Thanks for giving some thoughts and book recommendations. Before I get the book, I'll want to play a little bit, so basics are great.

If you happen to get a screw that is rusted and won't come loose, stop right there. We can help you through that one.

Thanks again. Justin



Can you post some pics?


routerjim was a posting while I was slow typing
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Old Posted 03-13-2008, 10:23 PM in reply to stwoodie's post starting "Can you post some pics? ..."
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I'll post some pics when the #4 arrives. The steps identified are appreciated. I don't have sharpening stones or anything really at this point. Given the review of the WS3000, I ordered one from Hartville tonight. Hope adds to the simplicity and accuracy as I learn to sharpen.

Thanks guys. Justin

Last edited by DCG; 03-13-2008 at 11:28 PM.
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  #9  
Old Posted 03-13-2008, 11:53 PM in reply to DCG's post starting "I'll post some pics when the #4..."
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Justin,

I have the MKII and a set of Norton stones, bring them badboys by the house and we'll drink some beer and make sharp steel.
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  #10  
Old Posted 03-14-2008, 12:02 AM in reply to TowMater's post starting "Justin, I have the MKII and a set of..."
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TowMater View Post
Justin,

I have the MKII and a set of Norton stones, bring them badboys by the house and we'll drink some beer and make sharp steel.
Perfect. What a deal. When the planes arrive let me drop you a line and we can find a good time for a beer! Justin
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