From WoodworkersZone WoodWiki
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Revision as of 18:55, April 18, 2009
I don't have any pictures of work during the process, but this is how I do it...
- Sand through 320, alternating scratch patterns and wiping off the sanding dust between grits
- Use an applicator with a few drops of thin CA glue on it to wipe off the dust from the 320
- Put some mineral oil on a piece of 320 w/d paper and sand off the CA glue, filling the pores and sealing the pen blank
- Use a paper towel to wipe off all the mineral oil
- Use 400, 600 and 800 w/d paper, wiping off the residue between grits
- Fold a paper towel so it's thick enough that several drops of medium CA glue won't immediately soak through
- Wipe down the pen blank
- Put a few drops of tung oil (others use BLO, but I don't have any) on a clean spot of the paper towel and wipe the blank again
- Repeat the medium CA glue and tung oil once or twice--more than that isn't necessary, IMHO
Acrylic pens follow the same schedule, except I omit the CA, since there are no voids to fill. At this point, with acrylics I buff, using Tripoli, then white diamond, then wax sparingly. The wax serves no purpose except as a way to lubricate the buffing cloth.
- Let the pen sit for a couple or a few hours so the glue cures completely
- Go through the micro-mesh grades, 1500-12,000, wiping off the residue for each grade
All the above steps are done with the lathe at its slowest speed. Then I increase the speed to about 1000 rpm and buff the blanks, using white diamond buffing compound and then a little wax.
By: Harry Rigg
There are a ton of different ways to apply a CA finish. Searches on IAP (penturners.org or TPS thepenshop.net) will yield a lot of info. The common problems I keep reading about is a cloudy finish which could be oil/moisture in the wood or a pre CA finish to pop the grain.
By: Mike Z.
If you don't have some already, get some micromesh (preferably 2 sets - one for CA, one for everything else.)
Lasts forever as long as you don't overheat it.